Boiled Bigano Snails

Bowl of Biganos

Biganos are a predatory species of sea snail that latch onto oysters. I read about them a while back on Rob Walsh’s blog Texas Eats. Rob explains about the little pests, also known as oyster drills, and their impact on Texas oysters. To sum it up: it ain’t good. These little pests bore into oyster shells and extract all the tasty meat, killing the oyster.

While reading the post, I couldn’t help but to wonder – can I eat them? Cause I’m all about garlic butter baked escargot. Many a time I have pondered raising my own escargot, wild caught from the garden.  I mean, if you look at some of the photos below, I already own escargot forks. That’s pretty serious snail love.


So I was pleasantly surprised to find out you can eat these little guys. And I was doubly surprised to discover a new Houston market selling Biganos.  Louisiana foods on Saturday morning hosts a bycatch fish market. PJ, the fishmonger, and another gentleman, Billy, offer local seafood and rarely eaten bycatch fish. Bycatch meaning the stuff that usually gets thrown out by the fisherman while fishing for more marketable specimens like shrimp.

I visited the market a couple of weeks ago. PJ was super helpful on Bigano cooking tips. He recommended a crawfish style boil with seasonings for an hour and a half. It worked great and the snails came out perfectly tender.

I only picked up two pounds of the snails the first visit. Next time I’ll grab more. Then it’ll be time to experiment with some garlic and butter baked Biganos!

In the meantime, here’s a very rough recipe to get you started boiling your own Bigano snails:

Bigano Snails in a Crawfish Boil

2 pounds of live Bigano snails (but the more the merrier)
Crawfish boil seasoning to taste
Water

Note: PJ recommends storing freshly purchased, live Biganos on top of a moist towel or rag in a container in your fridge. My tip is to use a rag you hate because those little guys smell strongly of the ocean (won’t come out) and the snails release a purple dye (won’t come out).

Prepare the snails by rinsing them thoroughly. Soak them for 30 minutes or so, letting them expel any sand and other fun bodily fluids. Rinse a few times again for good measure.

In a large stock pot, place the snails in side and cover with water with a few additional inches at the top.

Bring to a boil. Add a few tablespoons of crawfish boil seasonings and reduce heat to medium / low. Cook for an hour or more until desired tenderness is achieved.

To eat: first remove the hard thin disc at the foot of the snail. With an small fork, nail, or strong wooden skewer, hook the exposed meat and gently pull it out of the shell.

Bigano sack removal

On top of the snail meat will be a sac of intestines: pinch them off.

The remaining meat is ready to eat. Bon appetit!

If you want to follow the wonderful offerings of Louisiana Food’s Bycatch market, check out PJ’s blog – Professor Fish Heads. Beyond being the best name of a blog, ever, it’s filled with tons of interesting tidbits about bycatch fish. Items available at the Saturday market are posted at the Total Catch Market blog.

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Collard Greens with Bacon and Onions

Even though the weather is getting warmer, there’s still time to enjoy a variety of greens before they bolt or wither. Right now, gardens and farmers markets are filled with a huge mix of leafy edibles to try. One of my quintessential Southern favorites is collard greens.

Collards easily grow throughout the southern United States. They’re a beautiful addition to a vegetable bed too. I love their large, deep green leaves which always seem to be prolific even in the cold winter months.

One of the most popular ways to cook collards is by boiling or simmering. Compared to other greens, the thick leaves of collards need a longer cooking time. So, plan on setting aside 30 minutes to over an hour for your collards to reach the desired tenderness.

Collard greens are great when heaped on top of freshly baked cornbread. I like a bit more “pot liquor”. Pot liquor is the yummy juices at the bottom of the pot left by the boiling greens. So to get a little more of that juice for soaking in my cornbread, I add around 2 cups of broth or water. In this recipe, you can adjust the amount of cooking liquid to suit your taste.

Collard Greens with Bacon and Onions

1 pound of collard greens, stems removed and greens chopped
¼ cup of chopped onions
¼ pound of bacon, finely chopped
2 cups of chicken broth or water (more or less depending on personal preference)
(Optional) Splash of apple cider vinegar (approximately 2 tablespoons)
Salt and pepper to taste

Thoroughly wash collards in water until no soil or sand remains. Drain and dry the greens. Remove the tough stem from the leaves and chop the collards into bite sized pieces. Set aside.

In the bottom of a large pot, fry the bacon over medium heat until it releases its juices. Remove the bacon from the pot and set aside.

Keep in the pot a few tablespoons of the bacon grease, discarding the rest. Add onions and cook until softened and lightly browned. Add collard greens. Stir to coat the greens in the onions and juices. Cook for 1 minute. Add desired amount of broth or water, a splash of vinegar, and stir to combine.

Cover the pot and cook for 30 minutes or more until the desired tenderness and flavor is achieved. A longer cooking time makes the greens tenderer and less bitter.

Stir in the fried bacon a few minutes before serving. Serve warm as a side dish or as a full meal on top of cornbread.

Serves 2 as a main dish.

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Seed Stashing

Well, it’s been a while.

Work has been super busy and my online classes have been a handful too.
I haven’t done much cooking at home either. Or going out with friends. Shameful.
But, I’m taking the time to get my head around some projects and to adjust to my new busy schedule.

One thing I’ve been prepping for is my spring and summer garden.

I’ve bought a whole lot of seeds. An obscene amount, really.

Seed collection

What’s my justification? Well, our garage apartment is on a gated property with other folks. There’s a community garden with full sun. So, you know, these seeds are to be shared by everyone. That makes it okay, right?
I think sometimes I buy the seed packets just because of the cover art. Realistically, I don’t have room for most of these plants.

Botanical Interests seed packetsKitazawa Seed packets

The worst offender for my overbuying is Botanical Interests with their colored pencil drawings. The illustrations are so lovely. I’m also a huge fan of Kitazawa’s two tone packets.  I love their seeds too (which I’ll save the gushing about them and growing Japanese veggies for a later post).

This year I bought some seeds from Seed Savers Exchange and Richter’s Herb. I’ve wanted to try heirloom greens and some uncommon basil varieties. I procrastinated on ordering. So I’m hoping there’s enough time to get some nice lettuces in before it’s too hot.

Let’s see what I can make room for this year. I keep all my seeds in this miniature mock green house. So my theory is, if I can limit my collection what will fit in this little box, it’s not a problem. Right, guys?Seed Collection Closed

Confess, do you have a seed collecting obsession?

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Fruit Tree Sale


Image by Benketaro on Flickr

It’s time for the Urban Harvest Fruit tree sale.  At the sale, you’ll find a ton of trees appropriate for Houston’s climate.  The prices are good and proceeds go to Urban Harvest.  Which then goes to community gardens and outdoor classrooms.  Which then should make you feel warm and fuzzy inside.

I have a few tips for the new attendees, based on my experience at last year’s sale.

Be prepared: take a list. Some trees are in limited supply and there’s a good chance there’s a lot of people ahead of you (people are in line, way early) . I’d say, with the lines and the sometimes lack of carts, the moment of the sale is not when you want to ponder all of your options.  You can start preparing your want list by viewing the trees for sale here and their growing descriptions over here.

Wear weather appropriate clothing, because you’re going to be outside for awhile.  It looks like Saturday will be in the 50s.  That’s in contrast to last year, which took place during freezing temperatures.   Remember bringing frost cloth to protect any tropicals purchased?  Good times.  You won’t have to worry about that this Saturday.  But do remember that you’ll be out there for a bit, so bring a coat, hat, sun screen if you need it.

Final sneaky tip: bring multiple forms of payment, if you can.  Why?  Because then you have your pick of fastest payment line!

I’m excited to go again this year.  On my list is a kumquat (haven’t decided which variety), dwarf peach, and a calamondin.

Which reminds me, there’s quite a lot of trees for sale that are appropriate for container gardening.  I rent, so all of my trees are in large pots.  Don’t feel left out if you only have a patio.

I’ve been growing in pots:

  • Lemon, Improved Meyer
  • Limes, Mexican Thornless and Kafir
  • Fig, Petite Negra

Other container appropriate fruit trees that are for sale:

  • Kumquat, most varieties
  • Calamondin
  • Lychee
  • Dragonfruit
  • Mandarin, Kishu seedless and Nova
  • Peach, Bonaza Miniature
  • Sugarapple
  • Star Fruit

And, there’s probably more that I’m not aware of.  Please comment if you’ve had any luck with other fruit trees in containers.  I’m very curious!

If you can’t make the Urban Harvest Fruit Tree sale, Harris County AgLife Extension office will have a plant and fruit tree sale on March 5th.  Most nurseries will have new trees for sale in the coming months too.

In case you would like more information on the hows and whys of growing your own fruit trees:

Urban Harvest Gardening Classes

Houston Gardening Guide at the Chronicle

Houston Garden Girl’s Fruit Tree Series

TAMU Fruit and Nut Guides

Happy gardening and see you at the sale!

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New Sunday Farmers Market

Big news!  Urban Harvest is partnering up with Highland Village to open a market on Sundays.  There’s already one that’s open on Saturdays right around the same time as the Eastside Market.  But now, folks will have another venue to get their farm fresh goodies for the week.

The Houston Farmers Market post has now been updated with the new date and location.

For more information on the new market, check out Urban Harvest’s Food for Thought.

For the non-Houstonians, you can find local farmers markets by visiting Localharvest.org

Can’t wait to check it out!

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Meyer Lemon Curd


I love Meyer lemons!  I love them in a bit of an obsessive way.  When there’s a hard freeze in January, my first concern is my own patio citrus trees, then some of my other tropical plants, then I  start thinking along the lines of; “OMG, WILL THIS RUIN THE MEYER LEMON HARVEST THIS YEAR???”

Seriously.

So what’s the big deal, you may ask?  They aren’t your ordinary supermarket lemons.  Some horticulturists believe they are a cross between a lemon and an orange.  They’re much sweeter and less tart than Eureka lemons (kind found in most grocery stores.)   I’m not a fan of most tart and sour desserts.  But Meyer lemons produce such a mild, sweet juice, they’ve won me over.

Meyer lemons are not sold in many supermarkets because their soft thin skins makes them more perishable.  So they get points for rarity, too!

But the thing that I absolutely adore about them is their intoxicatingly fragrant skin with herbal undertones.  There’s something in the smell and taste that reminds me of one of my favorite herbs- thyme.

You can use Meyer lemon juice in any lemon recipe.   Be aware, you might need to reduce the amount of sugar in the recipe since these beauties are already so naturally sweet.

Meyer lemon curd is a good recipe to start with.  You can use this curd to spread on toast or scones, fill cupcakes or tarts, or just eat from the jar.  This recipe is adapted from David Lebowitz’s Improved Meyer Lemon Curd with lemon zest added to his recipe.  As David explains, it’s easier to overcook the curd using direct heat.  So if you’re worried, this recipe can be cooked in a double boiler or with a larger bowl covering a pot with simmering water.

Meyer Lemon Curd

Adapted from Davidlebovitz.com

1/3 cup sugar
2 egg yolks
2 eggs
½ cup of Meyer lemon juice (about 2 to 3 lemons)
Zest from the 2 or 3 lemons (approximately 3 tablespoons)
Pinch of salt
6 tablespoons of unsalted butter

Prepare a mixing bowl with a fine mesh strainer on top.  Set aside.
In a heavy bottom saucepan, whisk together eggs and sugar.  Heat pan on low.  Add lemon juice, lemon zest, salt, eggs, and butter.  Whisk to incorporate.

Switch to a wood spoon or spatula (whisking throughout the cooking process incorporates air into the mixture, making the curd less dense and spreadable).  Cook on low until butter melts, stirring constantly.

Once the butter has melted, increase the heat to a medium-low, making sure the mixture does not boil. Stir constantly until curd thickens and covers the back of a wooden spoon (about 10 to 12 minutes).  Alternately, cook until the mixture reaches 165 on a thermometer.

Once thickened, pour through the fine mesh sieve into the bowl.  Be careful not to press any cooked egg bits though the sieve.

Transfer curd to clean jars or plastic containers.   Makes approximately 1 cup.   Stores in the refrigerator for about a week.

Note: If the mixture does come out grainy, rather than silky smooth, it’s probably because it was just a little overcooked.  No worries on that front,  just pop the curd in a blender and mix briefly until smooth.  The mixture will become less thick, but a night in the refrigerator will restore its spreadable consistency.

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In Season: Kumquats

Ever see those tiny little orange fruits at fancy grocery stores?     Right now they’re in season.  I found a lovely batch at the farmers market last weekend.

I had never seen a kumquat before coming to Houston.  When I first encountered them, I was a little confused as to how to eat them.  I tried peeling… but there’s not much in the center!  Kumquats are mostly rind, with a little bit of pulp and juice inside.

Well, the secret is, you should eat them whole.

Yes, seeds and all.

The last batch I got at the market has a lot of seeds, but I’ve noticed the ones in the grocery store are mostly seedless.

While they’re in season, I highly recommend trying this fruit.  The skin and pulp are wonderfully sweet with a hint of bitterness from the rind.  The seeds are pretty bitter, so you can always spit those outs if you don’t like them.

I’ve been lazy and just snacking on these little gems.  But, here’s some recipes I’ve been eyeballing:

Kumquat Salsa Recipe from Simply Recipes

Moroccan Chicken with Kumquats and Prunes from Serious Eats

Kumquat Refrigerator Pie from Kumquat Growers Inc.

Candied Kumquats from Simply Recipes

Anyone else have favorite kumquat recipes to share?

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South Louisiana Pralines


Growing up, I was not a fan of pecans. I think it was the strange astringent sensation you get in your mouth from eating one too many under ripe pecans. Or maybe it was that pecan pie was too sweet.

At any rate, I revisited pecan desserts I few years ago and found that I liked them. In particular, I loved the pralines made at the candy stores in Jefferson, Texas. They often serve two styles of pralines: chewy, carmel-ly Texas style and soft, crumbly Louisiana style.

Recently, I got a hankering for some pralines. I found this interesting recipe in an old cookbook for a Louisiana style praline. It calls for caramelizing sugar at the beginning, which I haven’t seen in most recipes.

This is lightly adapted from Mrs. Myrtle Simms Fun Cooking Guide.


South Louisiana Pralines

2 cups of sugar

2/3 cup of evaporated milk

1 tablespoon of white Karo syrup

1 tablespoon butter

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 ½ cups of toasted pecans.

In a heavy bottom pot, place ¼ cup of sugar. On medium to high heat, let the sugar melt until it turns a deep, golden brown.

Add remaining sugar, butter, syrup, and salt. Stir until the mixture comes to a boil. Cook for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently, until the mixture reaches “soft ball stage” or registers 236 to 240 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy thermometer.

Add vanilla and pecans. Stir until smooth.

Remove pot from heat. Working quickly, drop the mixture by the tablespoon onto wax paper or a greased surface.

Makes a small batch of 12 pralines.

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Houston Farmers Markets

Carrots

I visited the Bayou City Farmer’s Market last Saturday after a brief hiatus. I just haven’t been in much of a home cooking mood lately.

But, with the change in weather, I couldn’t resist going to the market to see what’s season. Fall is my favorite time to cook. Cabbages, greens, root veggies- I love it! The cold weather brings the best produce for some of my favorite comfort food.

I’ve been frequenting the local farmers markets for a while now. A lot has changed. We have some new venues and some old branches have closed locations.

The following is a list of where to find markets providing local produce and prepared foods. If any information is outdated or incomplete, please let me know in the comments!

If you aren’t in the Houston area, check out localharvest.org for farmers markets in your area.

Urban Harvest Farmers Market

Wednesday 10 am to 2 pm at City Hall

Saturday 8 to 12 at Richmond and Eastside

Sundays 9 to 1 in the Highland Village

Sundays 12 to 4 pm at Discovery Green

Midtown Farmers Market

Saturday 8 to 12 at T’afia

Rice University Farmers Market

Tuesdays 3:30 to 7 pm at Rice U’s South Stadium Lot

Urban Pickins Farmers Market

Sunday 11 am to 3 pm at Wabash Feed on Washington Ave.

Canino’s Produce

Everyday 6am to 8:30 at 2520 Airline Dr.

Canino’s Produce is a mix of produce grow locally and stuff delivered by truck from all over the US and Mexico. Some local growers are set up behind the main building.



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Cleaning Copper with Lemon and Salt

Recently at Blue Bird Circle Resale, I found the cutest copper coffee press. I’m guessing it works like an Italian style percolator. Coffee is loaded into the top metal sieve, hot water is poured through, and fresh coffee slowly drips into the cup below.

Of course, I don’t know because I haven’t tried it out yet. Instead, I’ve been enjoying this piece as decoration on a shelf.

When I bought it, the tarnish was a dull brown. Didn’t quite like that, so a quick scouring of the net yielded a cleaning method with ingredients I had on hand.

The method is pretty simple and safe: dip lemon wedges into salt and rub the wedges onto the copper piece. Rinse with water and dry.

Like magic (or some kind of chemistry trick), it took the tarnish right off.
At first, I was disconcerted with the weird pinkish cleaned copper. After giving it half an hour or so, the piece began to oxidize again and developed a warm patina. Much nicer.

A few pointers about this technique:

Keep soft, dry cloths around to wipe away the excess water from rinsing. Otherwise, you’ll be left with dark, streaky drip stains on the copper. Unless that’s the sort of rustic look you’re hoping to achieve.

Since lemons are pricey, it’s best to leave this technique for smaller pieces. The surface area of a lemon isn’t that big. So you have to go through a whole lot of lemons to clean something big, like a copper kettle.
But for the small stuff, this works in a pinch!

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